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Yamatari glacier lies north east from Ghunsa. From Ghunsa it takes about three hours to reach the Dudhkunda which is a small lake (frozen) near the glacier. The terrain is beautiful and if you are lucky you can find some snow leopard (in extreme case, beware!) or some yaks in normal cases. There are some chances to see wild goats as well. This place is about 4500 meter above sea level and clouds float below you. The weather changes quickly from bright sunshine to dark and dusky in matter of moments, so don’t get worried much and don’t get deceptive by the weather. I am not sure but I feel that this place remains frozen all the time. Of course it’s a glacier.

You can also hear some sounds every few minutes. Something mysterious crackling sounds. These sounds come from breakdown of ice of glacier. Glacier is not good place to sleep! It’s a noisy place. Further rock toppling is common phenomenon in this place. However these random rock fall has also added beauty to this place.

At this altitude almost all vegetation stops growing because of extreme cold weather though out the year. But some plants are stubborn, they want to live here. And they have grown special properties in them due to their dedication. Their smell is very good. Dry and burn them to make your room smell like flowers. These plant are called Sunpati (सुनपाती) in Nepali.

This route is not the usual trekking place for the trekkers so virtually you will not find any people on the way. For lonesome trekkers this will be great. However because you are at high altitude going alone will be dangerous: take your friend with you.

If you move early in the morning from Ghunsa to this place you will reach at noon. Carry enough water and food to replenish your energy and strength for back trip.

I feel lucky, for I was paid by my office for this trekking. Only thing I had to do in return to my office was to put some instruments on the way.

This was the longest field trip in my life. I made many records (see personal notes).

I had been to this place one time before as well but this time it was fun filled and adventurous than the previous one.

The route we followed was Kathmandu>Birtamod>Taplejung (Fungling) in motor vehicle and then on foot upto Ghunsa. The visit took between 8-30 Nov 2009.

End of Proluge

part i kathmandu-to-taplejung